Trip Report: Backpacking Cathedral Lakes, Yosemite — CA
Trip Date: September 5–6, 2021
Trip Details
While driving home from a backpacking excursion, a “She Explores” podcast was on and the latest episode was about a solo backpacking experience on the Cathedral Lakes trail. Though we’re not quite ready for solo trips of our own, we added this hike to our list of group trips to complete! Cathedral Lakes is a popular trail for day hikers and backpackers alike given it’s short distance to scenic views. My obsessive scanning of available permits paid off when four became available after a cancellation for early September!
Permit: There is a 15 person daily quota for this trailhead, of which 60% are available for online reservation 24 weeks in advance. Two weeks in advance, the remaining 40% are available via lottery. You may also pick up cancelled permits up to 4 days prior to your hike.
To reserve a permit, on the reservation request form, select the following:
- Starting trailhead region: Tuolumne Meadows
- Trailhead entry: Cathedral Lakes
The cost is $5 per person + $5 processing fee and the $35 entrance fee (waived if you have the National Parks Pass).
Note: Permit reservations will be moving to recreation.gov in 2022!
Parking: Parking is available on both sides of the road near the trailhead. There is no specific lot for this trail. Port-a-potties and bear lockers are available.
Trail Length:
Trail length: 9 miles
Elevation Change: 1,571ft
Weather: low 80s/high 30s
Other Things To Note:
- Bear canisters required (when lid is open, canister must be within arms reach)
- Camp 100’ away from water sources
Day 1: Sunday, September 5, 2021
Shortly after we passed the trail marker, the trail began to climb. It was moderately steep, close to 550 feet elevation over less than a mile. We were unacclimatized to the elevation and it was enough of an incline to get our hearts pumping fast and work up a steady sweat. The heat certainly did not help! Most of the trail was under conifer forests providing much needed coverage from the sun. The trail flattens for a little less than a mile, where around a bend, an unobstructed view of Fairview Dome is available. That day, we saw a single climber attempting to summitt. Another short climb of about 430 feet over roughly half a mile led us to a gentle descent toward the lake.
We spotted a pair of chubby marmots lurking on granite slabs!
At the fork, we veered toward the right to lower Cathedral Lake in search of a campsite for the night. There are camping options available close to the lake under shaded areas of the forest. We set up with haste, scarfed down our lunch, and spent some time in the water!
I retreated to a rock to admire the view when I felt movement on my leg. By reflex, I brushed off my leg and a squiggly looking shape made a quick appearance in my peripheral vision as it flew through the air and onto the ground. I jumped up and flailed around when I realized a mountain garter snake had slithered it’s way onto me and I flicked it off before knowing what it was. Despite being thwarted the first time, it made its way back to the rock where it stayed to sunbathe. It laid there in defiance of me, claiming the rock as its own. And I conceded, lol.
Park Rangers stopped by our campsite to check permits and take questions. They were pleasant and continued on their way after their check. A reminder to always bring your permit with you!
We explored the area and checked out a nearby viewpoint of Tenaya Lake. This is accessible by continuing the trek lakeside a couple hundred feet and walking up some granite slabs. A great place to watch the sunset!
We walked toward Cathedral Peak and checked out the old meadow trail leading to the lake that Yosemite NPS was currently trying to restore. Neat!
As the light started to turn golden, we all changed into dresses and sauntered into the forest and surrounding area for a whimsical photoshoot!
After taking a metric buttload of photos, we hungrily made our way back to camp to prepare dinner. On the menu that night was spaghetti and bolognese freeze dried food and chamomile tea.
Night fell quickly and the stars came out in full force! We laid on the granite slabs close to our campsite to watch the show.
Day 2: Monday, September 6, 2021
We woke up at 6:00 AM to drink coffee and watch the sunrise. Little puffs of pink floated next to Cathedral Peak as first light began and the sun started to rise higher into the horizon.
It peaked out right next to the rock formation before rising completely overhead.
After packing up and starting our trek back, we ran into several Roosevelt deer, who froze in space and waited for our next move to make theirs. We cleared the path for them and they scampered off into the forest. So cute!
The rest of the hike out was uneventful and easier going mostly downhill. It took us about 2 hours to make our way back to the trailhead.
This was a great, fun-filled overnighter and we would love to come back here to check out Upper Cathedral, Budd, and Sunrise Lakes one day. So much left to explore!
Hope this was helpful! Until next time, trek on! ❤ Em
