Trip Report: Backpacking Lion’s Den, Big Sur — CA
Trip Date: May 3–5, 2019
Trip Details
Em reporting in with some more quarantine throwback trip reports! I wanted to go somewhere for my birthday and had my sights set on Big Sur. My first choice was spending the night at Kirk Creek campground and heading straight to the Vicente Flat to Cone Peak trail the next morning. A trip for another time! We found an alternative with less people, heading to Lion’s Den via Cruickshank trail.
Permit: None required for overnight. Fire permit required (if you plan on having a fire) and can be obtained through http://www.preventwildfireca.org/Campfire-Permit/
Getting There: Not wanting to drive there first thing in the morning straight from the Bay or paying for an expensive hotel nearby, we opted to stay overnight at the Hearst San Simeon campground. It was a “midpoint” (not really for the SoCal peeps lol) from the folks in the bay and friends coming from San Diego.
Parking: Parking is on the shoulder of the highway right next to the trail. There is room for several cars.
Trail Length:
Trail length: 10.9 miles
Elevation Change: 3000 ft
Weather: Highs in the 60s, low 40s
Other Things To Note: Dogs are allowed on this trail
Day 0: Friday, May 3, 2019
Four of us in the bay left in the late evening after coming back from work and arrived at the Hearst San Simeon State Park Campground around 11PM. My partner and I were too lazy to set up camp and instead decided to sleep in the car. This would prove to be a terrible mistake that I would regret greatly. Do not do this.
Day 1: Saturday, May 4, 2019
I ate Pop tarts for brekky and we headed to the trail, a chill 30 minute drive from the campsite.
Incline started right away with switchbacks up next to the highway and deeper into the hills. The hillside was covered in pale pink and white false bindweeds and other wildflowers as we made our way up. It was a lovely sight to see against the backdrop of the ocean.
Once we completed the switchback section, we came upon the official Los Padres National Forest sign! We took this as a cue to take a quick break.
I mean. I knew this going in. But it was an uphill battle the entire time. It was rough. Nothing like a sufferfest to make me feel alive on my birthday, am I right? It also makes me really appreciate the people who decided to spend their weekend with me in pain and torture. Friendship!
The trail led us into a shaded area where there were several options to set up camp. There were two fire rings. The best campsite had two perfectly situated trees for a hammock and a view of the valley. Of course, it was already taken. We found out later that the people commandeering it at the moment waited overnight for the spot and took it first thing that morning. So, even if we hauled ass we wouldn’t have snagged it. That made me feel better, actually.
We were all gassed from the walk here and sat for awhile, catching our breath and showering the doggos with pets for their hard work.
We explored around the campsite and took a bathroom break at this lovely location.
There were four groups total at the campsite, just enough space for all of us! Two nice fellows who arrived before us had one of the fire rings and offered to share. We eagerly took them up on their offer and started to set up dinner.
Since this was such a short trip, we decided to go big and make fresh jambalaya for dinner. We split up the weight of the ingredients evenly before the trek and carried it to the campsite. So yummy!
After dinner, we gathered around the campfire and tried to complete the NY crossword puzzle of the trip, enlisting the help of the fellow backpackers who offered to share their fire ring. When the night rolled in at full stop, we mosied over to an opening in the trees to stargaze.
When the stars blurred in our vision from weariness, we trudged into our tents to sleep for the night. Having Hiccup and Echo there gave me comfort and I’ve never slept so well in the backcountry.
Day 2: Sunday, May 5, 2019
In the morning, we were able to snag the vista spot for a hot second to snap some pictures and check out the view before leaving.
We filled up our bladders in the creek nearby and were on our way. But first, let me take a selfie.
On the way down and around a bend, I got distracted by a fluffy dog and tripped over something. I made it worse in my attempts to stop myself and continued to careen down the trail, almost rolling down the hill before finally falling on my hands and knees. I scraped my knee pretty good but it could have been a lot worse if I didn’t have my hiking pants on. I called myself lucky for not falling off a cliff on my birthday and trudged on, just a tad embarrassed by my clumsiness.
Legs feeling like wooden pegs from the uphill climb yesterday, I was glad to see the opening of the hillside to the ocean and the final switchbacks down to the car. The fog was there and patted my cheeks with a light mist as I waddled my way back the last stretch. I was so happy to see our cars! So were the doggos!
Hal and Pedro packed watermelon and Hot Cheetos as a reward for finishing the trek and I was pleased to find that the watermelon remained cool. What a treat! Definitely adding this as a post trip ritual when possible.
This was a hard trek for me with the uphill and basically full exposure. Not a bad choice if you’re looking for a less populated trail, though. Expect to stay an extra night if you want to score the top camp spot!
Hope you take something from this report! Trek on! — ❤ Em
